Cold Consommé

It’s a pity that most of us are put off by cold consommé since the most delicate flavors, which would quickly evaporate if the consommé were served hot, are held in delicate suspension when it is served cold. A successful cold consommé must have just the right amount of gelatin so that it’s neither too stiff nor too runny when you take it out of the refrigerator. It should slowly begin to liquify so that when you serve it, it barely holds together. If cold consommé contains too much gelatin it will be rubbery and unpleasant. If it doesn’t contain enough gelatin, it will be completely liquid, which is a less serious problem. In fact, some people prefer it this way—but I enjoy the sensation of the trembling consommé dissolving in my mouth. To give your consommé the right consistency, use broth that’s been made entirely with meat and clarify it with meat only. (You can also use oxtail soup.) Unlike bones, meat contains relatively little gelatin, so a broth made only with meat won’t be too rubbery.