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Choosing a Good Steak Cut

Appears in
Glorious French Food

By James Peterson

Published 2002

  • About

Times of war and famine may have contributed to the French aversion to wasting food, but the end result has been a collection of techniques and recipes for virtually every part of a steer. Unlike cuts used for braising, stewing, or poaching, cuts used for steaks must be tender because they will not be exposed to prolonged heat, which tenderizes even the toughest cuts.

The best steak cuts run along the back of the steer. Boneless rib steaks are cut away from the ribs nearer the shoulder, usually from the seventh to the fifth rib (the rib numbers get larger as you move back along the steer), while club steaks are cut away from the eighth to the twelfth ribs, the ribs nearer the loin—the same ribs that are roasted for prime rib. Rib steaks have a chunk of fat in the middle, which is easy to eat around but which may be the reason rib steaks are often a good value, while club steaks don’t have the fat and are usually more expensive. Nowadays, butchers and supermarkets sometimes don’t make the distinction between rib steaks and club steaks, but sell the club steak section of the ribs as prime rib and the rest—the shoulder end of the ribs—as rib steaks.

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