Egg-Liaison Sauces

Enough balderdash has been written about these sauces—oil or butter in an egg yolk suspension–to scare off at least two generations of home cooks. Mayonnaise, hollandaise, and béarnaise can all be made with a wire whip (or even a heavy fork) and a bowl or pot. They may be made by hand or in an electric mixer or blender, and the latter methods are incontrovertibly labor-saving. However, as in learning to drive with a stick shift, I think one’s understanding of how these sauces work is better if the hand method is mastered. Besides, what will you do if the power fails or you do get that long holiday on a remote island (or even deal with a European kitchen)? It is always a good idea to be as independent of mechanical help as you can before American kitchens get to look like Houston Control.