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Published 1991
Great pride is taken in the family pig. It will have the finest bristles, the pinkest skin, the curliest tail, the broadest beam – the last promising short but round hams. It will be the most sensible, lively and greedy of all pigs. It will receive the maximum attention and care, representing as it does months of work and investment. It is always referred to respectfully as lou moussur – ‘Sir’. The time for slaughter is carefully chosen: the weather should not be windy or the meat will not salt properly. The atmosphere should be dry. The new moon is avoided. All the utensils associated with the operation will have been prepared and sterilized where necessary: tubs, cauldrons, pots, preserving jars and the salting jar, of course. On many farms a part of the attic is set aside to store all these, with enough draught to prevent the dreaded mould which, for example, can ruin a precious ham to the point that not even the dogs will touch it.