Le Cochon – ‘Lou Moussur’

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By Jeanne Strang

Published 1991

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WE MUST ADMIT straight away that we have not so far had the courage to attend the ceremonial slaughter of the family pig. However, this is still in some country farms a ritual and a joyous occasion in which the whole family takes part. One small child has passed a proverb into the folklore of the Ariège by answering the school master’s question of what are the three great feasts of the year – ‘The Ascension, the Assumption, and the Fête du Cochon’.

Great pride is taken in the family pig. It will have the finest bristles, the pinkest skin, the curliest tail, the broadest beam – the last promising short but round hams. It will be the most sensible, lively and greedy of all pigs. It will receive the maximum attention and care, representing as it does months of work and investment. It is always referred to respectfully as lou moussur – ‘Sir’. The time for slaughter is carefully chosen: the weather should not be windy or the meat will not salt properly. The atmosphere should be dry. The new moon is avoided. All the utensils associated with the operation will have been prepared and sterilized where necessary: tubs, cauldrons, pots, preserving jars and the salting jar, of course. On many farms a part of the attic is set aside to store all these, with enough draught to prevent the dreaded mould which, for example, can ruin a precious ham to the point that not even the dogs will touch it.