Le Cassoulet

SEVEN GREEK CITIES claimed to be the birthplace of Homer. As many towns in the South-West of France claim the distinction of having invented the cassoulet. Definitive proof would be a prize dearly to be won, for the cassoulet is to many the emblem of the region, like roast beef to the British or sauerkraut to the Germans. Essentially, it is a bean stew, perfumed with garlic and goose or pork fat and enriched by a variety of fresh or preserved meats which vary according to district. But some magic chemistry manages to fuse the aromas and textures to produce a creamy amalgam of flavours, topped with a crispy crust which sets off to perfection the gently bubbling richness beneath. It is a gloriously original and distinctive dish: no other cuisine has produced anything quite like it. It is so different from any other plat that it is difficult to know which section to put it in – hence this one all to itself.