François Bise

L’Auberge du Père Bise Talloires

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Published 1978

About

The necessary ingredients which make up a superb restaurant, as opposed to merely a good restaurant, are as indefinable and as complex as those which are needed to make an attractive human character. There are no rules. In the same way that a lovable person may be ugly or selfish, so a restaurant may be indifferently decorated or exaggeratedly expensive and yet make us supremely happy. It is never for one thing, not even the food, that we like a restaurant.

The food itself can be Bocuse’s Lyonnais-rooted cuisine or Outhier’s refined cuisine of polish, but on its own it will not be enough. Even the Guide Michelin has never given three stars to a restaurant just for the food, without considering its other qualities. A restaurant can be grand like the Baumanière or homely like Barrier, it can be formal like La Pyramide or informal like Pic. The service can be impersonal as at Le Moulin de Mougins or chatty as at Eugénie-les-Bains. There can be sommeliers as there are at Chapel or none as there is at L’Auberge de l’Ill.

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