Jean and Pierre Troisgros

Les Frères Troisgros Roanne

Appears in

By Anthony Blake and Quentin Crewe

Published 1978

  • About

We have an image in our minds of chefs as roly-poly figures full of bonhomie, as if the Michelin man also did the cooking. However, the image is a false one. It is cooks who whistle at their work, while chefs cry. The exceptions to this rule are the Troisgros brothers.

From no other three-star restaurant would you see a superior-looking customer emerge, with a cork trailing behind him, tied by a string to the back of his raincoat belt. His friends laugh at him and, when he realizes why, back he comes to the restaurant. Pierre Troisgros looks grave. Jean looks pained. How could such a thing have happened?