The Independent Cuisine of Pic

Jacques Pic’s menu is a rich one, and stands apart from the others in its complete lack of self-consciousness. There is a measure of homage to his father: the boudin de brochet aux écrevisses is basically one of André Pic’s recipes, as are the poularde de Bresse en vessie and the truffe de grignan en chausson. Jacques Pic has, however, invented dozens of intriguing dishes. Some, like the homard de camaret au safran, are in a traditional style. Others are extremely modern, such as the salade de pêcheurs au Xérès, which includes scallops, shrimps, sole, lobster, and crayfish tails with truffles and Xérès vinegar.