Hors-d’œuvre Variés

Most of the glamorous restaurants of the world serve a galaxy of titbits, both hot and cold, which fly under the banner of hors-d’œuvre variés. These appetite stimulants are usually wheeled up to your table on a two- or three-tiered trolley, each tier of which can hold up to twenty small dishes or raviers containing a colourful assortment of vegetables, marinated in olive oil and lemon juice and served à la vinaigrette, or prepared à la grecque with wine, olive oil, finely-chopped onion, carrot and herbs. These trolleys come to us via France from Russia where the hors-d’œuvre idea originated in the Russian zakouski table, set up in a room adjoining the reception room and wheeled in to satisfy far-travelling guests before dinner. Thus it is not surprising to find Russian salad, hard-boiled eggs with a mayonnaise or sour cream dressing, and pickled and preserved fish of all kinds included in the usual hors-d’œuvre assortment.