Vitello Tonnato

It is almost impossible to eat badly in Rome. Italians have always regarded cooking as an art and you have only to visit a Roman street market in mid-morning to see some of the most beautiful raw foods in existence. Great platters of fish in all the colours of the rainbow; fruits and vegetables spilling from the stalls almost to the pavement; golden yellow cheeses; minute purple artichokes; milk-fed lambs and young kid no bigger than hares; tender young leaves of spinach, cabbage and red cabbage, picked when they are hardly more than sprouts, just right to be included raw, along with crisp pink radishes, in the salads so appreciated by the Romans.