The North

For almost thirty years, the Jaffna Peninsula was cut off from the rest of Sri Lanka and run by the Tamil Tigers (LTTE). When the civil war ended in 2009, the peninsula was re-opened. Although scarred by the conflict and the devastating tsunami in 2004, Jaffna is alluringly beautiful and the people, despite all the hardship they have endured, are surprisingly warm and welcoming.

Jaffna cuisine is the most distinct in Sri Lanka and the people are incredibly proud of it. Renowned for its spicy dishes and use of fresh seafood, Jaffna is especially famous for its crab curry and odiyal kool, a spicy seafood soup. The preparation of these dishes is something of a mystery to people from other areas of the island.