Go to a fishmonger while they still exist to get good advice and wise information, and to ensure, please, their continuing existence. Going to a fishmonger, like going to a butcher, makes life easier where it matters – in the kitchen. I go for good fish, good meat, no funny stuff. But once there I make the most of it: butchers and fishmongers have skills that we don’t. Don’t feel apologetic about asking a fishmonger to fillet or a butcher to bone. When I order fish or meat I practically hold a conference to discuss every possibility, every eventuality; I pick brains, ask for advice on cooking and relentlessly exploit the expertise on offer. So should you.