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Meat, Poultry and Game

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By Jeremy Round

Published 1988

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The season opens for mallard, partridge and teal, ensuring that several more of Dingley Dell’s life insurance companies will go bust. But these birds, along with hare and snipe, make better eating later in the year; the best game for September is pigeon and those monarchs of the glen and moor, venison and grouse.

Traditionally, which in this case means before widespread refrigeration, this was also the month in which pork returned to the table. Many of my Lincolnshire grandmother’s best anecdotes begin; ‘It was the first chilly snap of September and we were in the yard killing the pig . . . .’

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