Meat, Game and Poultry

This is the best month for most game, including pheasant, partridge, snipe, woodcock and species of wild duck. As grouse get tougher toward the end of their season (10 December), they are happier casseroled than roasted.

Pheasant easily dries out if roasted, even if covered in bits of bacon and smeared with butter. Instead, try browning in butter in a flame-proof casserole. Add finely sliced onion and chopped apple, flame with Calvados, season, cover, then leave over a low flame -turning the bird or birds once or twice – until cooked through. Remove from pot to carve and stir double cream or crème fraîche into the debris to make a coarse sauce.