Za’atar

If there is one smell to match the emblematic image of the Old City of Jerusalem, one odour that encapsulates the soul of this ancient city nestling in the Judean Mountains, it is the smell of za’atar. It is hard to describe the flavour of za’atar. It hovers in the general area where herbs like oregano, marjoram, sage or thyme reside, but is quite unique. Za’atar is sharp, warm and slightly pungent, almost at one with the smell of goats’ dung, smoke from a far-off fire, soil baked in the sun, and — dare we say it — sweat. Like most of the local plants, it is full of fragrant etheric oils which are released when the hardy, dry bushes are trampled underfoot.