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Hummus wars

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By Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi

Published 2012

  • About
Political and nationalistic discussions about hummus — where it started and how; who was the first to crush chickpeas and mix them with sesame paste and when — are almost compulsive. No one enjoys them anymore, but no one is ready to concede either.

Generally, most people agree that it was Levantine or Egyptian Arabs who first made hummus, though even this is debatable. In an article published in a local paper the celebrated Jewish author Meir Shalev interpreted a certain biblical passage as evidence that Jews ate hummus in biblical times. But when push comes to shove, nobody seriously challenges the Palestinian hegemony in making hummus, even though both they and the Jews like calling it their own. The arguments never cease. And even if the question of authorship is somehow set aside, you are still left with who makes the best hummus now? And here we need to start again— is it Ta’ami in west Jerusalem or Lina in the old city? Pinati or Abu Hassan?

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