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By Anne Willan
Published 1989
Pasta lovers are often surprised that many Italian pasta and sauce combinations do not call for cheese. In Italy, cheese accompanies pasta in broth (pasta in brodo) more often than dry pasta (pasta asciutta) and is considered to be out of place in a pasta dish that includes delicate or distinctive flavors such as fish or olives.
If cheese is added to a finished pasta dish, use a good quality, aged variety such as a mellow Parmesan (the best is Parmigiano Reggiano - grana), a slightly salty Pecorino Romano, or a nuttier cheese such as Asiago da allevo. Fresh mozzarella, made from either buffalo's milk (the most fragrant) or cow's milk, is the perfect choice for baking with pasta, although Bel Paese and Fontina, both rich and creamy, melt equally well. Ricotta cheese, when mixed with herbs and spinach or other cooked vegetables, is excellent for baked pasta. In a sauce, any good quality cheeses may be used. Blue-veined, tangy Gorgonzola and sharp Caciocavallo are popular, but should be used in moderation. See also Milk, Cheese and Eggs.
