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Mutton was far more common than lamb in the Lowcountry of yore, and recipes—most often in a British vein—abound. I frankly prefer the mature flavor of mutton over lamb—especially the lamb that has been bred for the American palate so that it does not, in fact, taste like Old World lamb. I mail-order my lamb and mutton, like my veal and chicken, from Jamison Farm, where all the animals are raised naturally. I don’t tell friends I’m serving them mutton—a Jamison leg of mutton is not much larger than the leg of a modern American lamb—and they are always thrilled with the flavor and texture. I try to simulate the high temperatures of real spit roasting when I cook mutton, even though I’m actually baking the meat.

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