At any one time the Lowcountry freezer is apt to hold quail, dove, venison, rabbit, and veal. The finest-quality, naturally raised meats and poultry are available at Jamison Farm (www.jamisonfarm.com) and Manchester Farms (www.manchesterfarms.com).

Quail is grown in Dalzell, South Carolina, at Manchester Farms. Order it from D’Artagnan at (800) 327-8246 or www.dartagnan.com. To inquire about retailers in your area, call (803) 469-2588. Squab (young pigeon) is related to dove; it has been raised on pure spring water and whole grains at the Palmetto Pigeon Plant in Sumter, South Carolina, since 1923. It is available either fresh or frozen via air freight. Call (803) 775-1204. Palmetto Pigeon also sells poussin (young chicken). It is available through D’Artagnan.

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