Introduction by Amol Rajan

Many a social history of England has tried and failed to identify the origin of the sandwich. Whole doctorates and careers have attended to the task. In fact it is precisely because the origins of this dish are so uncertain - and, by the way, who can really ever say when a particular dish was invented? — that with every passing generation there is some new theory about what makes the perfect specimen. How crisp should the bread be? Rocket or lettuce? Hot or cold?

The thing about all these theories is that they complicate the picture. For me, the ultimate sandwich couldn’t be simpler. It’s what I eat in Max’s, every time.