White is best here—try a Sauvignon Blanc from France (Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Graves), a bone-dry Chenin Blanc (Savennières), or a zippy Burgundy from Chablis, the Mâconnais (Mâcon-Villages), or the Côte Chalonnaise. A spicy dry Provençal or Loire rosé will work, too.
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.