Chocolate Joël Durand, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

If you bring wine to a French dinner party don’t expect to drink it there. It’s a rather clumsy gift, a cadeau empoisonné (poisoned present). The chances are your hosts have already carefully thought through what they would like you to drink and your bottle won’t suit the food being served. Champagne (chilled of course) is another matter, much easier to share pre-dinner or with pudding. If you lack the time or inspiration to find a thoughtfully personalised gift for Madame, bringing a box of chocolates is always a good idea. An added advantage, if you are greedy and curious, is that it is considered bad manners not to open and share them at the end of the meal.