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Published 1998
I do not subscribe to the current paranoia that sugar is nasty: eating is about the art of balance, of feeding the mind and soul as well as the body. It is misinformed to think of dessert as excessive, indulgent or unnecessary. If you can’t find room for dessert, it means you have ordered badly, eaten too much beforehand or not considered carefully enough the most appropriate progression of the meal. Dessert does not deserve this injustice! It needn’t be consumed with every meal, but dessert certainly should play a prominent role when celebrating, cooking a special dinner for friends or eating in a restaurant. ‘Sugar, of course’, reports the
