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In the UK 8kg (18 lb) of cheese is eaten per annum per person. In France the quantity is nearly three times as much, at 22kg (48½ lb). This disparity is revealing, and is not the result of French greed but of unfamiliarity, even fear, on the part of the British. Although many enjoy a decent cheeseboard, too few dare experiment with the more unusual cheeses on the market, and even fewer branch out when cooking with cheese. Parmesan and Cheddar may well be familiar to cooks, but who has the confidence to know what goes with Stinking Bishop, kasseri, Port Salut or Taleggio?