Soups, Salads, and Antipasti

When I was growing up, appetizers consisted of huge platters of finger food—meats, cheeses, Fritto Misto, or fried squash blossoms from my grandfather’s garden—served on holidays and at family dinners that drew everyone to the table. It was a soulful, convivial way to start a meal: a little messy, a little rowdy, but always delicious and a lot of fun. Of course, later, when I was coming up as a chef, I developed a more refined approach to appetizers (check out the Chestnut Soup and the Romaine Hearts with Dijon-Shallot Vinaigrette, both mainstays at Chianti), and learned to appreciate the grace of those clean, quieter flavors. But I’m still an antipasti guy at heart: To me, the welcoming and spirited character of those big platters is as powerful as the mix of flavors.