Death in the Pot

Appears in
Pepper

By Christine McFadden

Published 2008

  • About
Human nature being what it is, adulteration of a valuable and widely used spice such as pepper was inevitable from the moment it reached European shores. Unscrupulous profiteers devised ingenious methods for padding out its bulk; common adulterants included pepper husks, ground fruit stones, linseed, buckwheat hulls and mustard seeds. Isabella Beeton, 19th-century diva of household management, warns of rice flour in white pepper and burnt toast crumbs in black. And there is evidence of worse.

In 1820, Fredrick Accum, a London-based analytical chemist and influential campaigner for uncontaminated food, wrote A Treatise on Adulterations of Food and Culinary Poisons, known more sensationally as Death in the Pot (from 2 Kings, Ch.IV, v.40). Accum not only describes common methods of adulteration, but actually names and shames the perpetrators. Unsurprisingly, this brought him plenty of enemies and he was forced to retreat to his native Germany.