Introduction

In the western world spices appear to be subject to short-term changes in fashion just like any other must-have of the moment. There was a time when chefs and cookery writers couldn’t get enough smoked paprika, then lemon grass and lime leaves were the cook’s new best friend, closely followed by cumin and coriander when Middle Eastern cooking came into vogue. Meanwhile, like a genuine friend, pepper has always been there in the background, at the ready when needed.

‘... pepper has always been there in the background, at the ready when needed.’