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By Abra Berens
Published 2023
In her book How to Eat a Peach, English cookery writer Diana Henry describes being served a bowl of halved peaches and a glass of Moscato d’Asti for dessert. Her fellow diners cut the peaches and slipped them into the sweet wine, letting them bob around for a bit, then ate the peaches dripping with sweet bubbly wine and drank the wine now perfumed with the peaches. I think of her every time I slide a few wedges of a perfect peach into a glass of late-harvest Riesling (we don’t grow Moscato in the mitten). I think of her every time I barely handle fruit before presenting it to a table. I try to remember that serving fruit often requires very little from me at all, which makes the glass of wine studded with fruit that much sweeter.
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