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To Keep French Beans

Appears in
Real Irish Food

By David Bowers

Published 2014

  • About

Take the red kidney bean (the white will not keep) lay a layer of beans and a layer of salt in a crock till full put suet a top to keep out the air, small pots are best for that reason, when you dress your beans cut them longways like chips and lay them in warm water to take out the salt change the water two or three times it will make them green and fresh boil them as usual.

—from an 18th century Irish cookbook manuscript

Here’s a brief tale that will illustrate better than anything else how the Irish feel about potatoes: To understand it, you must first know the French pride themselves, as with so many other of their food, on the quality of their potatoes, and they are exquisite. I can buy expensive French fingerling potatoes, such as rattes, at gourmet stores and greenmarkets at a huge markup in New York. And yet, when my parents used to own a house in France where they stayed for long months every summer, they took along enough potatoes to last them all summer. As much as they loved France, and the food, and the wine, there was simply no negotiating when it came to potatoes. Proper Irish potatoes, or nothing.

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