C. & G. Neve, Seafood Specialists: you find them half-way down Siding Road, Fleetwood, a long and unprepossessing gulch of small two-storey industrial units, warehouses and workshops on the fringes of Fleetwood. It’s just after midnight. The street and the front of the buildings are orange from the streetlights. A rime of frost begins to settle on the car as soon as you turn off the engine. You can feel a deadening chill rising up through the soles of your shoes as you step out on to the tarmac.