When the fish is delivered to the River Cafe, it is checked carefully. The flesh must be rigid when prodded with a finger, the skin shiny and firm, the scales intact, the gills a deep red colour and the eyes clear.
Then we decide on the cooking method. We prefer to cook the fish whole – usually grilled.
If the fish is too large, we cut it into fillets and cook it according to season and the type of fish. We might stud sea bass with summer herbs before grilling, wrap a red mullet in leaves of red trevise and seal it – airtight – in silver foil before baking, or pan fry and then bake monkfish with pancetta.