Mediterranean Fish Soups

Along the southern reaches of Provence - from Marseilles to Monte Carlo - the fish soup reigns supreme. I give you here a recipe for one of the best soupes de poissons to be found along the coast, and a recipe for a more delicate hour ride, as well as a selection of shellfish soups and bisques. The first two recipes - unless you are lucky enough to be preparing them on the Mediterranean - are impossible to repeat exactly in this country, as the many little fishes that give them their unique savour are not available here. I suggest that in following these recipes you use whatever small bony fish you find available in your local markets, to capture some of the sunny warmth and flavour of Provence for your menus.