Clams

Appears in

By Robert Carrier

Published 1965

  • About
Most French cooks disapprove of canned food. Tongues in glass and canned truffles they allow as stand-bys, but canned food to them is no substitute for the real thing.

Admittedly, many canned foods are still a poor substitute for fresh foods. But others have been so altered in the canning process that they have become new varieties, new species almost, in their own right. It is time to take a look at some of these positive successes: canned pears, for instance, bear so little resemblance to the tree-grown variety that another fruit has been added to our larder. Canned tomato juice and Italian peeled tomatoes and tomato concentrate are another case in point. How many delicious Italian dishes would be denied us without their invaluable assistance. And baked beans have been transmuted into a new dish, a new taste, that would take the ordinary housewife days of effort to counterfeit.