All about beef

When one mentions beef in Britain, one naturally thinks of the lusty Beef of Old England - charred on the outside, rose-red inside, running with juices when cut - and the galaxy of recipes in which prime beefsteak plays its kingly part. I love the noble sirloin, the majestic porterhouse, the sophisticated tournedos, and the fine fat fillets and rump steaks with which British cuisine abounds. But I love, too, the simpler fare that comes from this versatile animal. After all, if 45 per cent of a carcass gives pieces for rapid cooking, there is still 55 per cent left with economical cuts for slow cooking. One of my favourite dishes is corned beef and cabbage-not out of a can, but the fresh, moist, rich Irish variety-a hangover, I suppose, from my many visits to New York restaurants, where it is a regular standby.