Don’t little lambs grow up any more? Mutton gets harder and harder to find, while butchers’ shops and supermarkets all over Britain are full to bursting point with leg, shoulder, loin and chops of tender lamb, from this country and New Zealand. And yet Irish stew, Scots hotchpotch, and boiled mutton with caper sauce, rightfully take their places with grilled mutton chops - seared black on the outside, moistly tender within-among the finest dishes in the world. I like a boned leg of mutton, too - filled with a savoury stuffing, wrapped in suet pastry and simmered to full-flavoured perfection in a stock enriched with vegetables.