Green Peas

Green peas - peas in the pod, that is - were first to disappear completely under the wheels of our modern Juggernaut, “convenience living”. They have almost totally disappeared from the shops. While masses of exotic rarities are becoming commonplace at our greengrocers, fresh peas - once on sale everywhere - have moved against the current up into the rare luxury class.

It is really our fault. Frozen and canned peas are much easier to deal with. Their ready availability in freezer and larder is a constant boon to the hasty gourmet. But they are not the same thing. Nothing can match the flavour of peas freshly picked from the garden and popped, together with a few of the tenderest pods, and a lettuce heart or a sprig of fresh mint, into the pan just before Sunday lunch. So try and wheedle your greengrocer into ordering fresh peas from the market; or beg them from your friends with kitchen gardens. As a last - or best - resort, grow them yourself.