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Thickeners and Emulsifiers

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By James Peterson

Published 1991

  • About
While flavor is doubtlessly the primary quality by which sauces are judged, one should not underestimate appearance, mouthfeel, consistency, and thickness. In old-fashioned classic cuisine, starches were used as thickeners. When nouvelle cuisine was at its height in the ‘60s and ‘70s, butter and cream were the fallback thickeners. When handled judiciously, these result in sauces with irresistible mouthfeel that, despite their richness, give the impression of lightness.

In recent decades, there has been much discussion of “modernist” cuisine. Modernist chefs have made valuable discoveries that allow us to manipulate food (and sauces) in new and unexpected ways. The modernist adaptation of compounds and techniques used in industrial cooking is particularly enlightening. Research by chefs and writers such as Ferran Adrià, Heston Blumenthal, Wylie Dufresne, and Nathan Myhrvold has highlighted exciting new techniques, equipment, and compounds.

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