Hot Gelées and Chauds-Froids

Hot gelées are one of the latest contributions of modernist chefs. This is because certain modernist ingredients such as agar, sorbitol, xanthan gum, and low- and high-acyl gellans can set gelées at higher temperatures and subsequently be served warm. These hot gelées can be served much like their cold counterparts, for example, cut into decorative cubes for garniture. However, unlike cold gelées, hot gelées tend to slip off the top of food in one solid sheet—an unpleasant effect. A safer approach is to place the gelée under the food, much like the fluid bouillon-like sauces used as modern brown sauces. A second sauce, one that coats the food from the top, can also be applied; it should contrast in flavor and texture with the gelée. One approach, in fact, is to take one of the components out of the coating sauce, such as domestic or wild mushrooms, truffles, or saffron or other spice, and work it into the gelée so that the experience of the dish is complete only after biting into the gelée.