Because I grew up on the coast, my family ate more fish than meat. My grandmother was Catholic and would always have fish or shrimp at the table on Friday. Usually we’d eat seafood cooked in a spicy broth or a stew made with freshly grated coconut or green unripe mango, with rice or bread on the side. We also enjoyed fried oysters and scallops and dried fish and shrimp pickled with chiles and turmeric.
When I moved to the United States, I was exposed to a whole new world, where raw oysters, ceviche, crudo, gravlax, and fried catfish were celebrated with fervor. Over time, I learned to recognize and appreciate regional differences in cooking methods and flavor for each type of seafood, and I loved it all.