Winter Warmth

In wintertime, the center of the Kanda house (and most other houses in the country) is the kotaze, a low table with a futon draped over it. Under the table is a small charcoal heater that keeps one’s feet warm. With the futon to hold the heat in, it also makes a warm “cupboard” where yogurt, miso, and amazake (fermented rice gruel) can slowly ferment. The kotaze is in the living and dining area, just beside the kitchen. Doors lead from it to the bedrooms, but in winter they’re kept closed so that no heat will escape. The bedrooms are unheated, and in winter, getting up in the morning from a snug night under a heavy comforter in an icy-cold bedroom takes a certain amount of willpower.