Judging Freshness

Salmon is sold whole (always gutted), cut crosswise into steaks, or in fillets. It is no exception to the rule that it’s easier to judge the freshness of whole fish than filleted fish or fish that’s been cut into steaks. A whole salmon should be so shiny that it sparkles. The skin should be silvery with no dark or gray patches—where scales were rubbed off from mishandling—and the eyes crystal clear and protruding slightly from the head. Lift the cartilaginous flap at the base of the head (called the opercle) or have the fish seller do it so you can look at the gills. The gills should be deep red or pink, and when you stick your nose near them they should have a clean sea-like odor with nothing fishy about them. The end of the tail should be straight and moist and not curling up or drying out at the end.