Olive Oils

Spain is the world’s largest producer of olive oil (for more). And its varieties are reaching American markets in ever-increasing amounts. How to chose? First, determine your needs: sautéing, dressing a salad, baking, deep-frying, and/or drizzling on dishes as a garnish. For basic cooking needs, like sautéing, go with a tasty but inexpensive Spanish or Spanish-style extra-virgin oil, such as the Borges, Carbonell, or Goya brands. For deep-frying, many of the sturdier, inexpensive extra-virgin oils are perfectly fine. If you’re unsure, look for an oil simply labeled “olive oil” (without the words virgin or extra-virgin) or dilute extra-virgin olive oil with a vegetable oil such as canola; 60 percent olive oil and 40 percent vegetable oil is a good proportion.