Cold Soups

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Published 2005

About

Salmorejo

Andalucia’s other Tomato and Bread Masterpiece

During the torrid Andalusian summer, salmorejo is appreciated as much as gazpacho. What distinguishes salmorejo from its relative is the absence of water, onions, and cucumbers, as well as a higher proportion of bread, which makes for a lusher, creamier texture. Each cook insists on a different ratio: Some suggest it should be one to one (one pound of tomatoes to one pound of bread). In my recipe, borrowed from Jaylu, my favorite restaurant in Seville, I use a quarter pound of bread to two pounds of tomatoes. To me, the texture is ideal.

The quality of the tomatoes is of utmost importance—they should be sweet and fragrant but also have a lively acidity. Adding vinegar is delicious but not necessarily traditional; it’s mostly used in porra, the version of salmorejo from the Andalusian city of Antequera near Seville. In some versions, especially those from Córdoba, a raw egg yolk is blended with the other ingredients. The classic garnishes are chopped hard-cooked egg whites and diced or slivered jamón, but other possibilities include small chunks of canned tuna, small poached shrimp, diced cooked potatoes, and/or chopped tomatoes and onions. As a tapa, I like serving salmorejo in shot glasses topped with a poached or grilled shrimp on a skewer. Once you learn how to make the soup, you’ll discover that its uses are almost endless—a perfect summer refresher!

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In this section

Classic Gazpacho

Creamy Cordoban Gazpacho

Strawberry and Fennel Gazpacho

Cherry and Beet Gazpacho

Almond Gazpacho with Figs and Edible Flowers

Spicy Gazpacho Sorbet with Balsamic Drizzles

Watermelon and Tomato Soup

Chilled Herbed Pea Soup

Chilled Potato and Bacon Soup

Fish Stock for Soups, Rices, and Seafood Dishes

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Soups

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