Although Swiss chard is often ignored in the United States, it’s very popular in Italy and the south of France. Its distinct earthy taste—it reminds me of beets—makes it perfect in dishes containing garlic. I have no idea what makes Swiss chard Swiss. I’ve never encountered it in Switzerland; on the contrary, I associate it with hot climates, robust cuisine, and dishes made with garlic and olive oil.
Like spinach, Swiss chard can be precooked or added directly to a soup. The choice is yours—some people find that its beetlike flavor takes over if it isn’t precooked, but if matched with other full-flavored ingredients such as garlic this is rarely a problem. Swiss chard is a bit tougher than spinach, so I add the leaves to a soup 10 to 15 minutes before serving, whereas spinach is best added just a minute or two before.