The word “artisanal” is probably not going to pop up in this chapter. Neither are the words “spare,” “delicate,” “understated,” or “low-fat.”
I feel pretty sure that none of the recipes here are going to crop up any time soon on the dessert menu of Chez Panisse—or Chez anywhere, for that matter. But what you will find is laugh-out-loud fun—sometimes jaw-dropping, I-can’t-believe-we’re-going-to-eat-that fun. These sweets are at home wherever a good time is being had; from the beach boardwalk and the county fair to a birthday party full of giggling children. Throw aside any fears about being gaudy, childish, or over-the-top. There is candy, popcorn, and food-on-a-stick here! These are the desserts to test the limits of your devotion to all good things sticky and sweet, gooey and chewy. There is something here for everyone; from the tooth-aching sweetness of honey-soaked baklava to warm, steamy biscuits soaked in a sticky, buttery glaze studded with pecans to pastries so stuffed with coconut-perfumed whipped cream you’ll wish you could unhinge your jaw like a python just to wrap your lips around it. So loosen up! Have a good time! Smile. Go beyond tasteful and say hello to just plain tasty.