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Marseilles

Appears in
A Table in Provence

By Leslie Forbes

Published 1987

  • About

“…tonight we can take this fish to Henri’s place. It’s a little bistort on the port which has a secret recipe for Bouillabaisse. He makes a big mystery of it, but everybody knows what it is: he perfumes the broth with cream of sea-urchin coral… you’ll see, it’s fabulous…”

From ‘Cesar’ by Marcel Pagnol

Bouillabaisse began as poor fisherman’s grub - a catch-all of anything too little, too spiny, or too ugly to sell. It was boiled up in water & olive oil & eaten with fingers, bread & gusto. This maritime stew, with the characteristic Marseilles additions of garlic, fennel, tomatoes & the hot pepper sauce called rouille, came to be known as Bouillabaisse, or in Provençal Boui - abaisso because, when the pot boils (boui), you turn down (abaisso) the fire. In other words, the broth must boil fast, to bind the olive oil & water, but not for so long that the fish overcooks.

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