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City and Country Fare

Appears in

By Ken Hom

Published 1990

  • About
O soul, come back! Why should you go so far?
All your household have come to do you honour; all kinds of good foods are ready:
Bitter, salt, sour, hot, and sweet: there are dishes of all flavours.

The Songs of the South, Ch’u Tz’u

The whole of China is vast, mysterious and seemingly unending. It would have taken me a dozen lifetimes to visit all of it, traveling up to the Tibetan highlands, and to the wastes of Inner Mongolia. But what I saw left me with an impression of people struggling against problems of poverty, lack of industry, sometimes primitive hygiene and other conditions, and barely functional kitchens. I had the luxury of a car and combination driver/guide, as well as the companionship of photographer Leong Ka Tai and his assistant. I also travelled by air. The planes were not exactly clean by Western standards and sometimes operated on a schedule I could not fathom. Still, like the trains, they carry a variety of Chinese people on the move including businessmen, people visiting relatives, and students going to Beijing. On one flight I saw a prosperous peasant grandfather going to visit his grandchildren on what was perhaps his first plane ride.

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