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Guga

Lewis

Appears in
A Taste of Scotland’s Islands

By Sue Lawrence

Published 2019

  • About
Fisherman Dods Macfarlane has lived in the port of Ness on the Butt of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides all his life. For most of the year he sells fresh and salt herring, mackerel, smoked haddock, cod and ling. One day in the summer, however, he and nine other men of Ness sail to a remote rock in the Atlantic - Sula Sgeir, some 40 miles north of Lewis - to harvest guga, as part of a legacy that has existed for many centuries.

‘The ile is full of wild fowls, and when the fowls has their birds ripe, men out of the parish of Ness in Lewis sail and tarry there seven or eight days and to fetch with them home their boatfull of dry wild fowls with wild fowl feathers.’ This was written by Donald Monro, Archdeacon of the Isles in 1549. And ever since then, men from Ness on the northernmost tip of the Hebridean island of Lewis have ventured forth, often in atrocious conditions, to stay on Sula Sgeir and harvest the delicacy that is known as guga.

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