On the Road

Three of the principal roads in western Georgia converge at Khashuri’s roundabout. That would be reason enough for street vendors in any country to hawk their wares. What makes this uniquely Georgian is the curious way that here, many people selling exactly the same things – from motor oil to deck chairs – clump together in one short stretch of the road. How do they all make a living? On the road from Khashuri towards Surami in Imereti about 20 women on each side of the road stand precariously near the fast-moving traffic, waving what look like large shoe soles at the oncoming drivers. They are nazuki, a sort of sweetened bread that holds nostalgic sway over many Georgians. On my first trip there, my guide insisted on crossing to the far side of the road to get to her favourite vendor – with me in tow to take a photo – and we both risked our lives for what turned out to be a very uninspiring flat loaf painted with bland, spiced syrup. You’ve been warned!