Wine

Zaza Darsavelidze picks me up in Tbilisi on the October afternoon I’m to visit his cellar in Kvemo Kartli. Zaza’s a military man and he drives assertively out of town into the suddenly parched landscape south of the city. We’re en route for Zaza’s village, Tamarisi, but after a few minutes we stop at Shavnabada Monastery, positioned high on a rock looking back towards Tbilisi. Mama Gregori, in long black robes, proudly shows us the historic qvevri cellars. The monk is apologetic but they’ve just finished harvesting and he doesn’t want me to take pictures. The handsome monastery is open to visitors, for those who wanting to see the cellars.